Friday, August 31, 2007

place princesse diana, paris

It looks so much shorter in real life, the tunnel at the Pont de l'Alma. In those second-by-second TV reconstructions of the accident (or as some would have it, "the accident") it seemed to stretch for miles. In reality, it scarcely merits the name tunnel; "underpass" is more like it. Nevertheless, this is where it happened.

And by some - can we say? - happy chance, up there above ground, directly over the entrance to the tunnel, where the living stroll and breathe and laugh, there sits a tiny park with a modest memorial: a golden replica of the flame of the Statue of Liberty, looking like a soft ice cream cone in a strong wind. It is the centrepiece of "Place Diana, Princesse de Galles, Princesse du Monde."

Well no; actually it's a symbol of Franco-American friendship offered to Paris on the occasion of the centenary of the International Herald Tribune in 1987. But in the minds of the people who flock to this site, leaving behind photos, bouquets of flowers and the inevitable graffiti expressing undying love and conspiracy theories, the golden flame burns for Princess Diana.

Doubtless the International Herald Tribune will continue to regard the square and the monument as its own. But Diana was the people's princess, and the people have expressed their will in this matter. It must have started simply enough, with curiosity, a desire to see the place where it happened. People came and found a theatre for the expression of grief. The flame gave them something to pose in front of for the necessary photos. Someone started posting the photos. And a pilgrimage was born. The body is not here of course. Diana is interred on her own tiny island on the Spencer family estate. But here, her death is more present. You only need to peer over the guardrail.

One day, a last flower will be laid by a last mourner. Some civic worker will tidy away the last of the photos. And these heart-felt memorials will seem as quaint and remote as the grief expended over the death of Victor Hugo or Sarah Bernhardt. But not anytime soon.

Wednesday, August 29, 2007

fly the sacred skies

Air Pilgrim has taken off. According to the CBC, Mistral Air, a small Italian carrier, has signed a five-year agreement with the Vatican to offer flights from Italian cities to pilgrimage sites including Fatima, Santiago de Compostela, Czestochowa, Sinai and the Holy Land. Yesterday saw Mistral's inaugural flight, to Lourdes. By next year the airline hopes to be carrying 150,000 passengers.

Cardinal Camillo Ruini, CEO of Opera Romana Pellegrinaggi, says the aim of the airline is to let pilgrims live their pilgrimage from the moment they leave their homes to the moment they return. To that end, flights will include periods of spiritual preparation and meditation, and in-flight videos with religious themes. The seat covers will bear the Papal arms of the ORP and its motto, "I seek your face, Lord." (There is apparently no truth to the rumour that "On a wing and a prayer" was ever considered as a slogan for the airline.)

Budget carrier Ryanair was quick to respond to the launching of Mistral, claiming in a statement that, "Ryanair already performs miracles that even the Pope's boss can't rival, by delivering pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela for the heavenly price of 10 euros."

Italian news agency ANSA reports that Opera Romana Pellegrinaggi is an organ of the Holy See, founded in 1933 with the objective of making organized pilgrimage, "a valid means of human advancement and evangelization." Last year, ORP presided over the holy travels of some 350,000 pilgrims, both incoming (tours of Rome and the Vatican, including audiences with the Pope) and outgoing. Its staff includes over 900 priests and some 400 lay pastors and co-ordinators who act as spiritual and technical guides for its pilgrim package tours. ORP also charters the "special trains" that give nightmares to French and Italian rail-schedule planners. In 2006, over 200 such pilgrim trains plied the Italian rails, 154 of them, carrying over 100,000 pilgrims, bound for - where else? - Lourdes.

A few more staggering numbers, courtesy ANSA:
number of pilgrims worldwide, 2007: 190 million
pilgrims to Lourdes this year: 8 million
most frequented pilgrimage site: Our Lady of Guadalupe, Mexico City, 10 million

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

world sauntering day

Put on some comfy shoes and get ready to go nowhere in particular because August 28th is World Sauntering Day. The observation goes all the way back to the mid-70s, when publicist W.T.Rabe (known also as the father of LSSU's world stone-skipping tournament) decided it was time for people to slow down, smell the roses and take a long leisurely look at the world around them.

So get on down (but don't hurry!) to the boulevard, the boardwalk, the plaza, the esplanade... Banish all thoughts of destinations from your mind. And if you're on the Camino, don't race to that next refuge. Let it come to you.

To learn more about the history of World Sauntering Day, and the rules and principles of sauntering, listen here. Now I'm going out for a saunter. Hope to see you.

Friday, August 24, 2007

the templar trail

Well, it had to happen sometime. My gratitude to Bill Cornelius for being the first to respond to one of my blogs. For his account of the Polish-Canadian pilgrimage to Midland, scroll down to the August 11th entry. And we expect to be hearing more from Bill when he gets back in six weeks... from his walk to Rome on the Via Francigena pilgrimage road. Go, Bill!

Yes, it's a peregrinating world out there, as people keep beating new paths and fixing up old ones. It was just a few days ago I was talking about the Abraham Path from Turkey to Hebron, and now here comes Brandon Wilson with "the Templar Trail." Here's his message, sent last week to the Santiagobis Yahoo Group.

A trail that I walked last year runs from France to Jerusalem. It traces an early pilgrimage route that coincides with that of the Romans and Godfrey de Bouillon of the First Crusades. The Templar Trail traces the Donau radweg, a beautiful bicycle path through Germany, Austria to Budapest. Then you walk onward through Serbia, Bulgaria and Turkey. There is plenty of tradition along the way, as you pass through 11 countries and areas practicing three major religions. No problem generally finding good accommodation and I was able to walk it in 160 days (133 walking days) for about the same cost as the Camino. I've been talking to groups about it lately with the hope that it will someday become an international trail for peace (fitting irony there, given its role in the Crusades).

Ultreia, Brandon Wilson

This one's not for the faint of heart. 4200 k's and not another pilgrim soul... Or not yet, anyway. Brandon's book on the walk, including stages, distances, sights and practical details, will be out in January. To find out more about this intrepid pilgrim (whose journeys have also taken him to Tibet and Africa), check out

Thursday, August 23, 2007

botafumeiro back in service

They call it the botafumeiro - the smoke-dispenser - and there's nothing else like it in the world: 1.5 metres in height, weighing over 50 kg, requiring a seven-man team, first to set it swinging, then to subdue it when it's had its little run.

No one can say for sure why the censer of the cathedral of Santiago is so massive, though it is commonly believed that it once served as a giant air freshener (not a bad idea when you consider that until 1786 the cathedral was also a place where the unwashed pilgrim masses ate and slept). The mechanism that sends it hurtling like a pendulum from one end of the nave to the other, at top speeds of 65 kph, dates back to the 16th century. The current botafumeiro of silver-plated bronze dates back to 1851; it replaced the 1544 edition, which was stolen (and doubtless melted down) by Napoleon's gangsters in 1809.

And yes, in case you're wondering, twice in its history, the botafumeiro has cut loose and gone for a flight. On the first occasion, in 1499, Catherine of Aragon was present. In fact, it was her sending-off party before her marriage to the to-be Henry VIII. Maybe to show what it thought of the marriage, the botafumeiro snapped its rope and went soaring through the windows into the Praza das Praterias. No one was injured on that occasion, nor on the second, which occurred in 1622.

Since then, the botafumeiro has had a clean safety record, and to keep things that way,it was taken out of service for two months earlier this summer so the cords could be replaced. We'll see how well these ones hold out. Thousands of pilgrims were disappointed not to see the botafumeiro in action, but she's swinging again, as this broadcast from TV Galicia, July 11, shows. (I know, it's not exactly news, but it's great footage and a chance to listen to the soft gallego tongue.) (patience, it's slow to load)

NB: the above photo was taken by Michael Krier and comes from the Confraternity of Saint James (CSJ) photo library, a terrific (and growing) source of Camino images.

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

new rules to govern compostela

According to La Voz de Galicia (, as of January 1, 2009, only those pilgrims holding credentials issued by the Cathedral of Santiago will be awarded the Compostela at the end of their journey. Currently, there are an estimated forty to fifty versions of the credential floating about, and the stated purpose of the reform is to combat abuses and clarify who is eligible for the certificate.

The Compostela is given to those who have completed the Camino "con sentido cristiano, aunque solo sea en un actitud de busqueda" - "in a Christian sense (manner / direction), even if it be only in an attitude of searching." At present, according to a cathedral spokesman, it is being claimed on a regular basis by "mere hikers and budget tourists" who show up at the Pilgrim Office bearing any old stamp-bearing document issued by dodgy Camino organizations and unscrupulous tour operators.

The abuses alleged are real. There are certainly individuals and groups who use the Camino's albergues as rest-stops on cheap holidays, driving from one to the next, arriving early to claim beds that should go to pilgrims who have walked or biked. I have known a few of these characters, and let me assure you that every last one of them held official credentials. They're really not that hard to obtain. So it's hard to see how the announced "reform" is going to change anything, and not surprising that many pilgrims are looking for a hidden agenda behind this unilateral move by the Cathedral of Santiago.

Let's hope there is no need for concern, and assume that if there is we can count on the various Camino associations - the ones who actually restored the path, established the refuges, and instituted the credential system - to speak out loud and clear on the issues.

Saturday, August 18, 2007

more on the abraham path

"We go to conferences all the time with Muslims, Jews, and Christians, and then we agree on all kinds of things, but we never feel the results on the ground. It's as if I'm running my car engine, but I never take it out of the garage. So maybe it's better if I walk with my own feet."
Dr. Hamid Murad, Jordanian Muslim leader

When Dr. Murad talks about walking with his own feet, he's speaking quite literally about a burgeoning international, inter-faith initiative known as the Abraham Path, a pilgrimage-project that is meant to unite Christians, Muslims and Jews on the journey of their common ancestor: from Turkey down through Syria, Lebanon and Jordan to Israel and the West Bank. Sound ambitious? Then consider that future extensions of the pilgrimage into Iraq (Abraham's birthplace), Egypt (where he sojourned) and - why not? - Mecca are also on the table.

This is all, in the words of a fellow blogster, "either a really good idea, or a really bad one." Several of these countries are at war (declared, undeclared or civil), and travel between them by their own citizens is often forbidden or restricted. Even for foreign pilgrims who can get the necessary papers, safety is a huge concern. But William Ury, the Harvard University conflict-negotiation expert who conceived the project, isn't waiting for conflicts to be resolved on an inter-governmental level. The aim of his pilgrimage is to solve them on a one-to-one basis, as people get out and "walk with their own feet." Besides, says Ury, the infrastructure for the project is already largely in place: "We're not creating this path. This path already exits. In some ways, we're just dusting off the path so you can see the footsteps."

Those of us familiar with the Camino will readily understand what the Abraham Path is trying to achieve in setting people on a single road to a common destination - a road where they will walk and talk and share bathrooms and cooking facilities and morning coffee and listen to each other snore (snoring is the common language of every race and creed) and somehow put up with and maybe even get to like each other; where each of them will be reduced and exalted to the common denominator of pilgrimhood. It's a powerful idea if it can be put into practice. And putting it into practice is what's happening now, with the first leg of the Abraham Path through Jordan scheduled to be ready in spring 2008. (Cautiously) break out your walking shoes!

"There is an old saying that some conflicts are so difficult, only a story can heal them..."
Click here to see a 7-minute RealPlayer video presentation on the Abraham Path initiative.

Thursday, August 16, 2007

record crowds for the King and the Apostle

Last night's candlelit vigil for Elvis was the biggest ever according to the Memphis Commercial Appeal (great name for a newspaper). An estimated 50,000 mourners, pilgrims, fans were still making their way, one by one, past the King's grave at sunrise this morning. One died of heat stroke in the afternoon leading up to the vigil, as Memphis temperatures soared to 106F. Check out this article for an interview with Roy Smalley, a "tribute artist" (aka, "Elvis impersonator") who also serves with the County Rescue Squad. He speculates on the reaction of someone waking from a faint to find they are being revived by Elvis.

And if the grave of the King is busy, how about the tomb of the Apostle? Not in centuries, maybe never, has Santiago de Compostela seen crowds like these. Last week, the Pilgrim Office in the Rua do Vilar handed out 7,209 compostelas, a single-week record (*the compostela is the certificate given to pilgrims who have walked one hundred kilometres or more and cyclists who have done two-hundred.*) On Saturday alone, 1500 accreditations were made, the first time the total has surpassed 1200 in a single day. Office hours were extended to make sure no one went home without their quaint Latin scroll, and though no figures are available, you can bet the little stationery shop across the road that sells cardboard tubes made an absolute killing.

Seems like we still need our kings and saints...

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

elvis - wanted alive

August 16th, 1976. The day that will always be remembered by, well by those who remember it that way, as the day the King died. (I never "got" the whole Elvis thing, but then I missed most of it.)

Tomorrow marks the thirtieth anniversary of Elvis Presley's passing, and tonight, for the twenty-sixth time, the event will be solemnized by a single-file, candle-lit procession through the grounds of Graceland to the King's tomb. Move over, Lourdes. Here are some details taken from the Candlelight Vigil Fact Sheet/FAQ.

When does the Candlelight Vigil begin? How does it work?
The opening ceremony takes place at 8:30 p.m. on August 15, near the front gates of the mansion property. Fans gather in the street and in Graceland Plaza to see this. There is a queue line in the street. At the end of the ceremony, torches lit from the eternal flame at Elvis’s grave are brought down to the gate. The queue line starts to move as fans walk through gates and light their candles on the torches and then walk single file up the driveway to the gravesite in the Meditation Garden and back down. To accommodate everyone who is in line, the procession lasts into the morning of August 16, the anniversary of Elvis’s passing.
Graceland staff members are positioned all along the way to offer assistance. Near the front gate, Elvis fan club leaders from all over the world work in shifts to offer further assistance.

Of course, the vigil is only the highlight of the annual Elvis Week. Other events include the Graceland Scavenger Hunt, the Ultimate Elvis Tribute Artist Contest, Elvis Bingo, the Hunka Hunka Burnin Peppers Memphis Farmers' Market and tours of the Elvis Presley Memorial Trauma Center. (This is actually starting to sound interesting.) It's getting late to catch the action this year, but if you're ever in the mood for a rock n' roll pilgrimage, this is the one.

Monday, August 13, 2007

the melting god

At an altitude of 3800 metres, the cave of Amarnath, sacred to the Hindu god Shiva, must be among the highest pilgrimage destinations in the world. It is also one of the most dangerous, as pilgrims have increasingly become the targets of militants in war-torn Kashmir. 2005 saw the murder of 32 pilgrims; last year, 10. In 2007 to date, twelve have been killed, including nine yesterday in a grenade and machine-gun attack on a pilgrim camp by a lone militant. State officials have moved to suspend the pilgrimage which, despite its perils, has attracted an estimated 84,000 pilgrims since the one-month season began July 19th.

Even the pilgrims who have made it safely to Amarnath have found little to worship there, as once again the object of their veneration has melted. The sacred object of the Amarnath cave is a Shiva lingam (the phallic image of Shiva) in the form of a natural ice stalactite.
Normally the stalactite waxes in summer and wanes in winter, but last year the stalactite failed to form at all - prompting person or persons unknown to construct one. The shrine's attempts to pass off this man-made frosty-the-snowman as Lord Shiva fooled no one, and scandal erupted amid accusations that shrine authorities had attempted to deceive pilgrims.

This year, once more, the lingam failed to linger. The secular-minded are pointing to global warming as the cuprit, the faithful left wondering why the Lord Shiva has withdrawn his favour.

Saturday, August 11, 2007

polish-canadian pilgrimage to midland

For centuries, pilgrims have set out from every part of Poland in the month of August, converging on the shrine of Our Lady of Czestochowa for the Feast of the Assumption, August 15th. From the way it was described to me a couple of weeks ago by Wanda Sawicki, the event is in the vein of a romeria, a mobile summer picnic and festival involving whole families and communities.
Since Pope John Paul II's 1984 visit to Canada, the tradition has been transplanted to Southern Ontario, as Polish-Canadians put on their hiking shoes and hit the road for Canadian Martyrs Shrine in Midland. According to the shrine's website, 8000 to 9000 pilgrims are expected this weekend. Does anyone out there have a personal account of the journey, or details about the logistics? (how many miles do you cover in a day? what happens along the way? where do you sleep and eat?) If so drop us a line. It would be great to know more about this local pilgrimage.

Friday, August 10, 2007

peregrina the pilgrim dog

On this day in history....

Yes, August 10th was the day I reached the end of my first Camino. And it was a Holy Year, 1999, so the madness was comprehensive, embracing. Fashion designer Paco Rabanne had called for the-world-as-we-know-it to end on the 11th, coinciding with the solar eclipse, so there was no time to lose. I started out from Arca early early on a sunny morning (there had been record rainfalls in Galicia that summer, which is saying much) with five Spanish companions and an old honey-coloured dog whom people called Peregrina (the Spanish word for a woman pilgrim).

No one was sure where Peregrina had started her pilgrimage, though some said as far back as Leon - more than ten days' journey. It was hard to imagine what ever motivated her to start walking. She must have sat and watched the pilgrims pass her farm for years. Then one day she got up and joined them. She slept at the refuges, where pilgrims fed her scraps from their meals. In the daytime she loped along at an easy pace, walking with one group of pilgrims or another. This morning, she had chosen us.

It was noon when we reached the Monte de Gozo, just before Santiago. After the fashion of pilgrims of old, I rushed ahead of my friends to be first to the top. Somehow I ended up losing them. I found out what had happened when I ran into them the next day (August 11th, when the world did not end). It seems Ana had twisted an ankle on the way up the hill. But I never saw or heard of Peregrina again. There are very few pilgrims who walk back from Santiago, so it's hard to imagine her turning around and finding her way back. I like to think that after Santiago, that good-natured, shaggy old pilgrim kept walking till she found a new home on a farm out on the road to Finisterre.

Thursday, August 9, 2007

women's day in south africa

We concern ouselves here with all things pilgrimage, so let's not overlook the August 9th celebration of Women's Day in South Africa. The day commemorates the 1956 march of 20,000 women on the Union Buildings in Pretoria to protest the apartheid pass laws. Now a march isn't the same as a pilgrimage, but it's another demonstration of the power, symbolic and actual, of a mass of people walking together with a common goal. Last year, to mark the 50th anniversary, the walk was restaged (aha! ritual, holy days - this is starting to sound like a pilgrimage).

The main observation this year is in Kimberley, where President Mbeki is speaking, and today's online edition of the Mail and Guardian reports that thousands of women have gathered at the stadium there, "some bussed in from as far as Pampierstad." Bussed in? They didn't walk? Well so much for symbolism. Or maybe it's just a way of saying these women have earned their seat on the bus.

Wednesday, August 8, 2007

santiago de compostela, july 25th

We've just passed Saint James' Day, July 25th. While most of us celebrate our birthday, for a martyr it's the day of his death that counts. Of course, from the standpoint of the faithful, the point of the rejoicing is not the saint's old life ending (decapitation, James' fate, is a hard thing to be merry about), but his new life beginning.

Here are some views of "los fuegos del apostol," the fireworks in the plaza of the Cathedral of Santiago ignited in honour of Saint James and his martyrdom. There's no denying the cathedral looks magnificent, though I'd be a little concerned about all the moss that festoons it bursting into picturesque flame.

Tuesday, August 7, 2007

chove en santiago

Some beautiful music today, and a bewitching singer. If you hit the link, YouTube will transport you to the Atlantic shores of Galicia where you will hear/see a song/video about the rain (chove) in Santiago. The group is Luar na Lubre, which means roughly, "moonlight in the enchanted forest," and that soft language that doesn't sound quite like Spanish, isn't; it's Gallego. As for that instrument that sounds like a bagpipe, it is; or at least it's a Spanish bagpipe, the gaita, which you'll hear a lot of in the Celt-influenced music of northern Spain. The lyric is by Federico Lorca, from his Seis Poemas Gallegos. The singer, Rosa Cedron, has since left the band (alas) to pursue "other projects." Turn down the lights and let it wash over you.

Saturday, August 4, 2007

the abraham path: a middle eastern pilgrimage road

Those who have walked the Camino often find themselves scouting around for new horizons: the Via Francigena to Rome, Norway's St. Olaf pilgrimage and the Buddhist pilgrimage around the Japanese island of Shikoku, to name a few.

This spring I learned of the most ambitious pilgrimage project yet. The Abraham Path is a proposed walking (cycling, driving) route that will follow the steps of the Biblical patriarch from Harran, Turkey, where Abraham first heard God's call, through Syria, Jordan and Israel to his tomb in Hebron on the West Bank. It's a bold initiative to bring the three faiths together on a single road, and while there is political resistance to overcome, the ambition for Fall 2010 is to have more than half of the 1100 km route mapped, waymarked, and pilgrim-trodden.

Sound too good to be true? Find out more:

Friday, August 3, 2007

spice pilgrim located

I thought I'd put up this picture of myself that I received today from the University of Toronto homecoming weekend booksale just to show how civilized I look when not walking across Spain with that grizzly "Outback Bob" beard.
I took home most of the books you see here at the end of the day (everyone in Toronto had somewhere else to go that weekend), but it was fun to meet and talk to other authors, including a face from the past, my former high school librarian. You never know who's going to publish a book next.
And speaking of faces from the past, I broke down the other night and joined Facebook, just to see if there are any Camino networks out there. There are several, most of them based in Britain, but including one small Canadian group.
I didn't get too deeply into them, however, because it occurred to me that some of my long-lost Camino companions might be Facebookers. I started punching in names and, sure enough, I had soon found Spice Pilgrim Kara, whom I haven't been in touch with for three years. I whipped off a quick message, threw it into cyberspace like a paper airplane... and she opened it a few hours later in an Internet cafe in India.
Her Camino took her from Barcelona (where she worked for two years) all the way to India and Nepal, where she's been hanging out for six months. Ah, the traveller's life. She and Nuala parted somewhere along the way, but it's not permanent. I'm sure they'll be back together someday for Further Adventures.